Pamapa Itum
The Tausug burnt coconut spice base from Sulu. Grated coconut is toasted until almost black, then pounded with lemongrass and garlic. It is what gives tiyula itum its colour and smoky depth.
- Time
- 45 mins
- Serves
- 10
- Steps
- 7
- Ingredients
- 7
Method
- 01
Toast the grated coconut in a dry pan over low heat, stirring constantly.
- 02
Keep going far longer than feels right - 30 to 45 minutes - until it is very dark brown, almost black. Low and slow is the point; high heat scorches the outside and leaves the inside pale.
- 03
Set aside about a third of the toasted coconut. Taking it off slightly earlier keeps some milder, nuttier flavour to balance the darkest part.
- 04
Pound the lemongrass, garlic, ginger and peppercorns together into a rough paste.
- 05
Add the darkest coconut and keep pounding until it releases its oil and turns into a coarse black paste.
- 06
Work in the reserved lighter coconut and the oil, and season with salt.
- 07
Use immediately, or store it as a base for tiyula itum and other Tausug dishes.
Cooking Tips
- Stir without stopping. The difference between deeply toasted and acrid burnt is about ninety seconds.
- A mortar gives the right coarse texture; a blender makes it pasty.
Ingredient Substitutions
- Fresh grated coconut is traditional. Unsweetened desiccated coconut toasts faster, so check it sooner.
- Leave out the chilli entirely - pamapa itum is a base, not a hot sauce.
What to Serve With It
- Rub it onto beef or goat before braising, or stir it into broth to darken and flavour a soup.
Storage and Reheating
- Keeps 2 weeks in a sealed jar in the fridge.
- Freezes well for 3 months - portion it so you can take out just what a pot needs.
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